Author: Beckers

At the end of last season we bought two patio umbrellas to help shade some areas of the patio on either side of our pergola. These areas, in particular, get a lot of hot summer sun in the late afternoon just about the time we want to wander out to enjoy a cocktail on the patio. All we were missing is a patio umbrella stand.

And here are our patio umbrella stand challenges: 

• Beefy enough to hold up in the constant breeze on our patio.
• Meld with our somewhat eclectic decor.
• Able to weather the spring/summer/autumn weather.
• Easy to move around the patio
• Fit our budget.

Research!

By now you must know that we research everything to death! And so the research began, leaving no stone unturned.

Ready-made Patio Umbrella Stand

In the retail world there are many options for patio umbrella stands either from a local retailer or online vendor. Regardless of the material or style — plastic filled with water or sand, steel, formed concrete, or even stands that can be mounted directly into your patio or deck surface, none appeared to be able to fit our first criteria: Beefy enough to hold up in the constant breeze on our patio. We needed something big and heavy. 

Now, to be fair, I did find some retail stands that had the weight required but they were hundreds of dollars to buy, so they didn’t meet our last criteria: Fit our budget.

Here’s some research that I found interesting. Apparently, the rule of thumb is that a patio umbrella stand, in terms of weight, should be ten pounds for every foot the umbrella is wide. So I did the math: our umbrellas are seven and a half wide when fully open. Seven point five times ten equals 75. I needed an umbrella stand that weighed at least 75 pounds. To be safe, a hundred pounds would be better. To buy that off the shelf could have cost as much as $250. And I need two. A retail purchase wasn’t gonna happen.

DIY Patio Umbrella Stand

Now in all of my research I viewed tons of homemade stands that ranged from the highly creative to the overly simple. But none satisfied our criteria to meld with our somewhat eclectic decor. I spent many afternoons laying in our hammock with an adult beverage thinking about what I could design/build/modify to meet all of the needs we had for patio umbrella stands. My mind kept revolving: reasonable cost, look good on the patio, be functional, hold up in the weather — over and over and over. This kind of mental process is good because you start eliminating the obvious and start thinking creatively, outside the box. And that is where you sometimes find your best solutions.

During my trips back and forth into the house from the patio hammock to refresh my adult beverage (I don’t have an outside bar yet — stay tuned!), I watched an internet provider installing new fiber optic cable in my neighborhood. All of that cable wrapped around those wooden cable spools got my “out of the box” mind cranking. Watch out!

Cable spools about 24 inches in diameter seemed to have enough weight and base to prevent the wind from tipping our umbrellas over. I did an extensive search online for new cable spools but they were not to be found. There was plenty of finished furniture from old cable spools but that wasn’t going to fit our need. Then I remembered that we have some friends in the cable business. I asked them if they had any old spools that I might have for free. Yes, they did. Here they are in their rough condition:

I wasn’t deterred because I knew I would polish them up to make them look better and be durable for any weather.

Refurbishing the Cable Spools

Paint

First I wire-brushed all surfaces to get dust, dirt, and grime off the wood. Then I applied the first coat of paint. I did not use a primer as the paint I bought was designed for exactly the kind of outdoor application I was seeking. Plus, the cable spools are made from pine so I knew the wood would really soak up the paint. 

Casters

Next, I installed four casters on each spool. To hold the umbrellas in place the stand had to weigh about 75 pounds — more than I want to heft around the patio. So the wheels make it easy to move that kind of weight. I also wanted brakes on the wheels so that a strong wind would not blow the umbrella and stand across the patio. After doing my research I found Jack Boss 3 Inch Caster Wheels (pack of 4) on Amazon. These are fabulous casters at a very reasonable price. Each wheel has a brake so I can firmly place each umbrella stand and know it is not going to move.

Umbrella Pole Sheath

The pole on the umbrellas we bought came in two pieces that thread together. So I took the bottom piece to my local big box hardware store to search for a tube in which the umbrella pole would snuggly fit. I found a PVC pipe whose inside diameter was 1.5 inches — a perfect size for the umbrella pole. After cutting the sheath to the desired length, I drilled a hole through the pipe about an inch from the bottom and inserted a bolt with nut so the umbrella pole could rest on the bolt. This allows any water that gets into the pipe to drain out through the bottom and prevent the umbrella pole from rotting.

Now, the PVC pipe was a bit smaller in diameter than the hole in the center of the cable spool. I needed a way to secure it centered without using any fasteners that would obstruct the umbrella pole from fitting into the PVC sheath. So I bought some cedar door shims and used them to wedge in between the PVC pipe and the outside edge of the center hole in the spool. It worked great. I pounded them in for a snug fit and cut off the excess. I then ran some caulk around the pipe on top of the shims for a good tight and smooth seal. Just be careful to make sure the PVC pipe is level and square so your umbrella will stand up straight and not be crooked. 

Lastly, I put several coats of gloss black spray paint made for plastic application on the PVC pipes and then brushed on a last coat of black paint on the top of each cable spool to give them a clean, finished look.

I also drilled a hole on the upper part of the PVC pipe clear through the umbrella pole to insert another bolt with wing nut to secure the umbrella to the umbrella stand. This will prevent a gust of wind from grabbing the umbrella and pulling it out of the umbrella stand sheath.

Corrugated Steel

We had just finished our grill deck and had some corrugated steel left over from the roof we put on that deck. So I thought it would be a nice detail to wrap the center part of the cable spools with some of the corrugated steel. I think it really dresses up the umbrella stands in an “industrial look” kind of way.

Patio Umbrella Stand FAQs

What’s the price range for Patio Umbrella Stands?

The average price for Patio Umbrella Stands ranges from $10 to $700.

How heavy should an umbrella stand be?

A good way to determine the minimum weight for your umbrella stand is to multiply the width of your umbrella canopy by 10. For example, for a 7.5′ umbrella we recommend using a 75 lb. umbrella stand; a 9′ umbrella will require at least an 90 lb. umbrella stand.

How much wind can a patio umbrella with stand?

You should close your patio umbrella if the wind velocity exceeds the range of 15-20 mph, although high-quality wind-resistant umbrellas may withstand it.

What is the proper height for a patio umbrella?

In general, you want your umbrella to be at least 7 feet tall. You can also look for patio umbrellas with tilting and cantilever functions to adjust where the shade lands.

Should I close my patio umbrella every night?

The short answer is yes, it is a good practice to close your umbrella at night or any time that you are not using it. Like most outdoor furniture, your patio umbrella is likely weather-resistant and made with durable materials, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it is indestructible.

What color of umbrella repels the sun?

The color option black is very popular because of its ability to block UV rays. Out of all the colors in the spectrum, black absorbs the most light and heat. If you have a black patio umbrella canopy, you can rest under it on hot sunny days without letting the heat bother you.

Patio Umbrella Stands to Beat the Heat, Wind, and Rain

The stands are now in service on the patio. One shields the hammock from the afternoon sun and the other shields the wrought iron furniture where we often sit to have snacks and refreshing drinks.

Are we happy? Absolutely! Are these umbrella stands as aesthetically beautiful as if they had been professionally manufactured and were brand new, just out of the box? No. But this is patio furniture. It needs to be rough and tumble. It needs to hold up in the weather. It needs to handle spilled food and drink. It needs be refurbishable again in several years. 

And did they meet our criteria? Yes. They certainly are beefy enough to hold up in the constant breeze on our patio. They meld nicely with our somewhat eclectic decor. They will definitely be able to weather the spring/summer/autumn weather. The casters make them easy to move around the patio but, with their brakes, make it easy to firmly ground the stands if necessary. And they really fit our budget — all in all, the cost of the materials to transform these cable spools into usable, effective patio umbrella stands was less than $100. 

So now it’s time to relax. And remember, every day is Friday on the patio!

Please Leave a Comment

Leave a comment below and tell us if this information was of value to you or tell us what we missed and can add to this post. Do you have umbrellas on your patio or deck to shade the sun? How do you keep them secure? If you are using patio umbrella stands were they purchased or did you make them? Please attach a photo to your comment so we can see how your stands work and how creative you may have gotten.

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I wrote an earlier blog post entitled: A Grilling Table is My Outdoor Kitchen because the cost of an outdoor cooking area seemed WAY above whatever budget I’d ever have. But issues started to arise when cooking outdoors with no weather protection. Invariably, when I’d decide to grill on a sunny Saturday afternoon, by the time I’d prepped the food, fired up the charcoal, poured an adult beverage, and was ready to grill, the weather had turned into rain and I was washed out. I needed to have a covered space to allow me to grill in a reasonable rain (or snow — Roanoke, VA is a year-round grilling opportunity). I needed a grilling deck for all seasons.

• I wanted an outdoor cooking space close to my indoor kitchen. 
• The grilling deck had to fit my grilling table, which holds my charcoal grill and a two-burner propane stove, plus a propane grill that a friend had given us.
• I wanted to build it myself to save money but I’m not the best carpenter so it would have to be simple and easy — no fancy cuts and nothing I couldn’t lift by myself. 
• The project had to be economical — definitely under $1,000 and closer to $500 if possible.

A Space Close to My Kitchen

Two years ago we had a poly privacy fence installed around our yard. When the fence was installed along our carport it left a small grassy space that wasn’t good for much. Or so I thought. This space is right across our carport opposite the back door leading to our indoor kitchen. Perfect!

Space for Grilling Table Plus a Propane Grill

The small grassy space “not good for much” was about eight feet wide by about sixteen feet long. After measuring all items I wanted on the grilling deck it appeared that a seven foot wide by twelve foot long deck would meet my needs and pocket book.

Determined to Build the Grilling Deck Myself

I am a very elementary carpenter (read: hacker — “a person who is inexperienced or unskilled at a particular activity”). I like 2x4s and maybe 2x6s. I like straight cuts and as few cuts as possible. I like screws versus glue because I make mistakes and sometimes I have to take apart what I’m building and reconfigure. And I like saving money!

I looked online for a plan but couldn’t find one I liked or thought that I could build. So I designed one myself.

I built the base out of 2x6s . . .

I built the base out of 2x6s with the joists spaced at 16 inches on center. This is a floating deck so I set it on some old pavers I had and leveled it up. I did not dig out the sod underneath as the earth here in Roanoke is very hard clay and I just didn’t have the energy to dig it out and replace it with a weed barrier and gravel like many of the YouTube videos I’d watched. The decking I used was 5/4 by 12 feet. All the wood I used was pressure treated to hold up in the weather. 

I wanted a partial roof to keep me dry . . .

I wanted a partial roof to keep me dry and/or out of the hot sun while grilling so I put the uprights in place, built the roof structure at five feet wide by 12 feet long. Then I bolted the roof structure to the rear uprights so I could swing it up into position with the front uprights and bolt it in place. (All of the uprights and braces are 2x4s since they carried very little weight.) My wife helped a bit at this point, but otherwise I was able to do most of the work alone and keep the project going. 

I covered the roof with corrugated steel panels from Home Depot. The material seems a bit thin but it has held up well and, since I did not design the roof to carry a lot of weight, these panels worked nicely and had the visual appeal I wanted. 

Click on each caption to get these featured grilling deck items from Amazon.

I wanted six foot corrugated panels but they only came in eight foot and 12 foot lengths. The 12 footers were too long for me to carry on top of my vehicle so I bought the eight footers and cut two feet off the end of seven panels. I used these tin snips — they worked great! (I used some of the left over corrugated steel panels to decorate patio umbrella stands I made.) 

Regarding the angle of the roof to allow for rain run-off, my research identified this rule of thumb: For every running foot of roof, the angle of the roof should drop 1 inch. I have a six foot roof so my roof drops, front to back, six inches. I put down some clear plastic between the deck and fence and topped it with river rock to allow the rain to flow down and out toward the street. This prevents the deck roof run-off from making the ground soggy and negatively affecting either the fence posts in the ground or the position of the pavers on which my floating deck is sitting level. It all works very efficiently.

Make sure when installing your roof panels that the first one is square on the roof structure or the other panels will “creep” as you install down the length of the roof. Not terrible if it happens but cleaner if it doesn’t. And shop around for some of the elements needed for this project. For instance, I found the screws to install the corrugated panels much cheaper at Amazon online from Jake Sales versus buying them at the big box hardware stores locally.

Make your grilling deck moveable

One last note: I made this grilling deck so that if I ever moved, I could easily take it apart and move it with me, maintaining the value and pleasure I have received from this DIY build.

Plus, an Added Bonus . . .

A grilling deck is going to need a workspace, right? Absolutely! Where else will you place your meat, ready-to-grill and your cocktail to enjoy while grilling! So, I collected several scraps I had leftover from other projects and pulled together a grill cart on wheels so it can serve whichever grilling apparatus I happen to be using at the time. And, of course, it needed to have a bottle opener as required, standard operating equipment for ice cold beer on a hot summer day.

Grilling Deck Had to Be Economical

I really wanted this grilling deck but it had to be within my targeted budget for my peace of mind and pocketbook after it was completed. All in all, I spent about $700.00 to complete the project including a gallon of pricey marine sealer that I applied to ensure that the deck would withstand the elements and perform for us for years to come.

The Benefits of a Grilling Deck

Now I can grill (almost) no matter the weather. I can plan and not be undermined by rain or snow. We can have those we may be entertaining join us at the grilling deck to enjoy many pleasures:

• The aroma of whatever is on the grill
• Enjoy an adult beverage and patio snack
• Create anticipation for the wonderful meal we all are about to delight in.

And all this from the grilling deck within reach of my indoor kitchen. It is simpatico. Mouth watering. Large-smile friendly. Pure fun!

And remember, every day is Friday on the patio!

Click on each caption to get these featured grilling deck items from Amazon.

UPDATE: This is EXACTLY Why I Built My Grilling Deck!

Just this afternoon I was grilling some marinated pork cutlets. As I have described in the above post, as the afternoon went on the weather turned from sunny to cloudy to looking like rain. Literally, as I was pulling my cutlets off the grill I heard the first raindrops on my grill deck corrugated steel roof. Within a minute or two what you’ll see in the video here occurred. Complete grilling washout without a covered grilling deck. The front of the deck where there is no cover was wet with rain. The grilling equipment under the roof remained bone dry. Build it! You won’t have any regrets. And you’ll conclude your grilling event dry and ready to chow down.

Please Leave a Comment

Leave a comment below and tell us if this information was of value to you or tell us what we missed and can add to this post. Do you have a space or structure specifically for your grilling equipment? If so, did you build it or have it built? What do you like about it? What would you do differently if you built another? Please attach a photo to your comment so we can see your cool grilling deck.

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Our neighborhood was built in 1970. The developer installed a 48 inch high chainlink fence around every back yard. And those fences remain today . . . 53 years later. Perhaps people were not interested in the privacy of their yards in those days.

We are one of the few houses in our neighborhood with a privacy fence. And I’m glad. We want to relax on our patio while enjoying an adult beverage, entertain our friends, chill out on our hammock — even garden, and not feel like our outdoor space is a communal environment where our neighbors can see every move we make or overhear our conversations. We’re not anti-social or snobby neighbors. We just like our privacy.

Another plus of our privacy fence is that many of our immediate neighbors have dogs who, before we installed our privacy fence, barked and barked and barked when we were in our backyard. Now that they can’t see us they bark much less. 

Frankly, in all of the cities in which we’ve lived (we’ve been vagabonds in the past) every house in our neighborhood had a privacy fence. So for us, it was one of three main objectives for which we budgeted as a patio project goal in our initial patio development.

And finally, our privacy fence is a good investment, increasing the value of our house. In a selling situation, a privacy fence will make our home more desirable and command a higher price than a fenceless house. It’s a good value.

Research Your Fence Options

We did quite a bit of research online to determine the material we wanted to use for our privacy fence. We narrowed our options down to three types:

• Chainlink Fence, Preferably Black, Vinyl-covered With Slats
• Solid Wood Fence
• Solid Vinyl Fence

Here’s what we found out in our research to make our final decision:

Chainlink Fence, Preferably Black, Vinyl-covered With Slats

We found a chainlink fence manufacturer who uses slats in the chainlink to create “privacy”. This manufacturer has developed a better type of slat that offers 98% privacy versus the standard slat style for chainlink fences which doesn’t look very private at all. The photos on their website (eprivacylink.com) of this type of fence looked really clean and contemporary. Sadly, however, we were fence shopping at the height of the COVID pandemic when everyone was improving their homes. No one knew how long the pandemic would last. People didn’t leave their homes except for necessary reasons like grocery shopping. So demand drove up the price, putting this fence style way outside of our budget. But you might check it out — it looks really cool.

Solid Wood Fence

A wood fence was our least desired option because we’ve had wood fences in the past at other homes we’ve owned. They never lasted as long as the supplier promised — in one instance our wood fence rotted and fell down after just seven years. Plus, to make them really last you must treat the wood with protectant every two to three years. That meant having spraying equipment or buying cases of beer, gallons of sealant, and boxes of paint brushes with which to con our friends into helping us re-seal our fence on a regular basis. Not an optimal situation as we have 331 linear feet of fence. 

And at the time we were shopping, wood was hard to get (pandemic issue) so the cost between wood and vinyl was almost the same when we purchased our fence.  

Solid Vinyl Fence

In the end, we selected a solid vinyl privacy fence for these reasons:

1. Aesthetically we really liked the clean lines of the fence design, enhancing the appearance and value of our property overall.
2. Both sides of the vinyl fence look the same. So we didn’t have to worry about which side faces our neighbors and which side we get to look at inside our yard, unlike a wood fence.
3. Vinyl fences can last over 30 years. 
4. The vinyl material is very low maintenance — as simple as power washing or hosing down the vinyl material every two to three years as needed. Much better than spraying or brushing on sealant on a wood fence every two to three years.
5. Vinyl fences weather very well, so our yard and patio area looks well-kept throughout any season of the year. 
6. The amount of privacy we feel we have far surpasses the other two materials we were considering.

Consult With Your Local Building Code Officials

I made it a point to go to our town offices and speak with the code official. I found out:

• I did not need a permit for my fence.

• Regardless of whether our fence was DIY or professionally installed, someone — the installer, if professionally done, or us, if DIY — had to contact 811 to determine what utilities were underground. Please note: Whomever calls to schedule for utilities to be marked is the responsible party. If you do not have the utilities marked before digging and something gets broken, you (the home owner) or your fence installer will pay for repairs. So if you are having your fence professionally installed, have the installer call for the utility marking. No digging should occur until you get the paperwork saying it was inspected. And you should clearly see visible markings on your property. By the way, we did have a gas line moved. By asking the gas company well in advance of our install date, they were able to work the gas line relocation into their normal schedule at no cost to us. Yahoo!

• Our code official suggested we have our fence inset on our property about six inches from the property line as a “hedge” against unknowingly installing our fence on our neighbor’s property. Because there is an existing chainlink fence installed directly on the property line, that six inch space was our responsibility to maintain or risk a citation. We would have to negotiate with four neighbors every time we mowed our lawn to allow us into their yards to weed whack that six inch space. No way. And then the code official suggested we inset our fence the width of our lawn mower plus an inch or two. Genius! Now we just run our mower around the 27 inch space between the two fences and then relax on our patio with a cold beer.

• The code official told me that if we extended our fence beyond the front plane of our house, the height of the fence would have to drop down from six feet to four feet. The fence could not extend any farther than 25 feet from the front of the house. We decided not to extend our fence into the front yard.

• Finally, they identified the maximum fence height at six feet six inches. That was valuable information because we wanted a taller fence. Because we verified the correct fence height, we avoided an unknown code violation. That violation would have caused us to remove the fence and install the correct height. And if not corrected now, the error would need to be corrected before we could ever sell our house. By the way, we asked for a code variance for a taller fence and they said ‘no’. But they were nice about it.

So the point here is, do your due diligence with your local building code officials so you know the rules before you contract with a fence supplier — in particular, whether a permit is required. If there’s no permit, there’s no official inspection and no one would notice any code violations until it’s too late, requiring expensive corrective action.

Selecting a Privacy Fence Supplier/Installer

Again, given the COVID pandemic situation at the time we were ready to purchase our fence, many of the vendors we contacted were booked a year in advance. We found only two suppliers, but getting more than one estimate saved us thousands of dollars. There was a $6,000 difference in the price estimate from one vendor versus the other . . . for the same fence! Needless to say, we highly recommend getting more that one estimate. 

Also, we checked-out both bidders online to read reviews from past customers. The company we decided to buy from had great reviews — happy customers. They are a smaller local company which we liked because we dealt directly with the owners who were a joy to work with.

And they were very honest with us about supply chain issues due to the COVID pandemic and weather issues in states where the materials for our fence were produced. We ended up with a delay of about five months. But our fence vendor was excellent about communicating with us so we always knew where we were in their cue and had accurate expectations of when our fence would arrive from their supplier.

By the way, if you are in or near Roanoke, Virginia, please include on your prospective supplier list, J & M Fencing. They did a great job for us and we recommend them for the quality they put into their work.

Other Privacy Fence Considerations

We communicated between our concrete vendor for our patio and our fence vendor so both vendors knew our project plans and timelines. This process is very important to making the entire project come off without a hitch. From both suppliers we learned that it would be better to pour the patio first and then install the fence. Otherwise, we stood a good chance of having to remove some of the fence to make room for the concrete equipment and then re-installing the fence thus adding to the overall cost of the project. Not good.

Another decision we made was to have a pedestrian door installed from our carport out to the patio and then, on the other end of our house, have installed two four-foot gates that, when opened, would allow for other equipment to get into our backyard (like a bobcat) in the event we wanted to make further backyard improvements in the future.

We Love Our Patio Privacy Fence

So now it’s been a little over a year since our privacy fence was installed. It still looks great. We enjoy private time on our patio lounging in the sun or entertaining our friends. We enjoy beverages, adult or otherwise and feast on fun patio food. Some nights we climb into our hammock and marvel at the stars. And all of these activities we enjoy without feeling like we’re sharing with our neighbors because . . . we have this beautiful privacy fence. Sometimes the simple things in life make us the most happy. Yes, life does happen on the patio.

And remember, every day is Friday on the patio!

Privacy Fence FAQs

How much does it cost to put a privacy fence around your yard?

Privacy fence installation can cost between $12 to $50 per linear foot depending on materials and the height of the fence.

Are vinyl fences cheaper than wood?

Initially, vinyl may cost more than wood. However, premium vinyl fencing will outlast the wood fencing by years, requires no maintenance upkeep, is impervious to insects, and over the long run, vinyl is less expensive than wood! Not only will it be less expensive than wood over 10 years, but it will also have about 6-1/2 times the Return On Investment (ROI) over wood.

What type of privacy fence lasts the longest?

Vinyl is hands down the material that is going to give you the most bang for your buck in terms of longevity. Vinyl fences can last over 30 years if they are properly maintained.

If you’re set on having a wood fence, cedar is the best choice for its durability (natural rot and insect resistance) and low-maintenance (no need to paint or stain). If overall maintenance and durability is a primary factor, vinyl fence may be a better choice.

What is the best season to build a fence?

Winter is definitely the best time to install a fence if you have a manicured landscape. Most plants are dormant during the winter months, which means trees, plants, and shrubs are less likely to be damaged during fence installation and construction.

Who gets the good side of a fence?

The finished side of a wood fence should face toward your neighbor. Not only is this more polite, but it’s the standard and may be a code regulation. Your property will look a lot nicer with the “good” side facing the outside world. But remember, vinyl fences look the same on both sides so you and your neighbors see the same great looking fence.

Please Leave a Comment

Leave a comment below and tell us if this information was of value to you or let us know what we missed and can add to this post. Do you have a privacy fence around your patio/yard and what kind? What was your experience in selecting and installing your fence. Add a picture so we can see how your fence looks.

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We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post at no extra cost to you if the affiliate links are utilized to make a purchase. Click this link to see all our disclosures.

There’s a Chill in the Air

Not to be dissuaded by the cold of winter, we started looking for ways to keep warm while still enjoying our patio even though winter has set in. Some kind of localized heat generator was going to be needed (read: a heater right next to me on the cold patio). Since our patio is not connected to our house in the backyard we need a free standing unit that would keep four to six people toasty. 

Power Sources to Consider

Our patio has no electrical service run to it. And, although our stove, furnace, and water heater are natural gas, the cost to pipe and bury a gas line from our house to the patio was more than we wanted to invest for outdoor heat. Plus, we wanted our heat source to be mobile over the entire 432 square feet of patio surface. So the heater must be portable (moveable). That left propane as the best option.

Research, of Course . . .

We started looking at all the propane patio heater options available that fit our criteria:

• Portable
• Uses a 20 LB tank (I already had a spare tank and didn’t want to buy another potentially adding $40 to $50 to my cost)
• Heat at least a 100 square foot area (10’ x 10’)
• Low maintenance
• Well constructed for longevity
• Purchase price of $150 or less with emphasis on “less”

Many propane patio heater models looked very similar so buyer reviews became very important. Sometimes buyers were complaining about the same issues on any given model — not good. Sometimes buyers loved their purchase and updated their review months or years later to say that their unit was still performing very well — wonderful! So buyer reviews can be very helpful to your research, especially if you read them from several unbiased sources. And remember to pay it forward. If you rely on credible reviews to influence your purchase and you are happy (or not), be sure and take the time to review the product yourself for the benefit of the next person researching the same item.

We Made Our Choice: Propane Patio Heater

When is was all said and done, we found a model at a local BJ’s Wholesale Club. Buying local for this item was a blessing as many reviewers of propane patio heaters they purchased identified damage to their purchase due to shipping. I didn’t want to hassle with a supplier over damaged goods.

Here’s the blurb about our propane patio heater from BJ’s Wholesale Club website:

Berkley Jensen Outdoor Propane Heater
“This heater neatly conceals a standard BBQ style propane tank up to 30-lbs. inside the stainless steel base. Powerful heat element produces over 48,000 BTU’s of radiant heat that reaches out up to a full 15′ around the unit (175 sq./ft).” 

The three most important factors to consider when choosing a propane patio heater are its size, its BTU output, and the heating diameter it covers. Heating diameter can vary considerably depending on the brand and style of heater; make sure you have a model that covers the entire area you want to keep warm.

Generally outdoor propane patio heaters run from $150 to $200 or more but can be had for less if you are diligent in your research. We paid less than $100 on sale at BJ’s Wholesale Club.

Important Note:
Once you make a purchase, please read your heater owner’s manual specifically to note the amount of open space needed for your propane patio heater both side to side and on top of the heating unit to prevent starting a unintended fire.

Patio Heaters Are a Necessity for Winter Entertaining

A friend of mine and I have a habit of enjoying a cheap scotch on the patio most Friday afternoons. Summer adult beverages were easy. But when it got cold that made our ritual a challenge. Enter the propane patio heater. We’ve used it down to around 40 degrees (maybe a bit colder) and it has worked splendidly. It can be breezy (sometimes windy) on our patio and that diminishes it’s heating capacity, but when the breeze quits we are toasty!

UPDATE

OK, so it is December 2023. We have just begun to use our patio heater for this cool-air season. And . . . it wouldn’t start. 

In the summer season I had disconnected the propane line from the propane tank and wrapped the line and regulator in plastic to prevent dirt from getting blown in and plugging up the line. Plus, I could smell gas when I tried the final step in lighting the heater. So the line and regulator were not the problem. 

Next, I went to YouTube and typed in “outdoor propane heater will not start”. There were several videos from other people who had experienced the same issue. They recommended taking off the top of the heater to look at the simple workings of how the gas gets ignited. They mainly focused on the thermocouple that has to get hot and stay hot when you first start the heater. The hot thermocouple acts as a constant igniter for the gas running the heat lamp until you shut the gas off. If the thermocouple gets dirty or sooty it won’t get hot enough to continue to ignite the gas as the heater is running. The recommended fix is to clean the thermocouple with some steel wool and then reinstall the top of the heater. But that wasn’t my issue. My thermocouple was still bright and shiny. 

Now, when I worked the manual spark clicker (meaning the starting clicker was not battery operated) used for igniting the gas there was no spark. That was the problem. 

I seriously thought about replacing the heater because many of the commenters on the YouTube repair videos said they were just about to replace their heater until they watched the repair videos. Their issue was the thermocouple and so they fixed their heaters and are now toasty warm. But I was not interested in buying a new part — my clicker — for a heater that I had only used a few times last season. So, what was my “old school” fix that works every time, saved me from buying a new heater, and has kept me toasty warm on my patio during these cool autumn days and nights? Matches. 

There is a hole at the bottom of the heater head where the gas comes out from the tank. It is there to start your heater with a match. Strike your match and put it in the hole. Then turn your heater gas knob to “start”. Volia! Instant start! Just don’t push in the “start” button releasing gas into the heater head and then start messing around with your matches unless you want your hair to get scorched. Even safer yet, use a Click N Flame Butane Lighter.

This is an easy fix and now I am throughly enjoying my patio heater once again without spending any money on a repair. Oh, and remember to enjoy a Julie’s Hot Toddy while you’re getting nice and warm under your patio heater.

Propane Patio Heater FAQ

Are propane patio heaters worth it?

Propane patio heaters are a great option, as they heat quickly and can be easily moved from one spot on the patio to another. The average heating area for any outdoor heater is about 100 square feet. Typically, a propane patio heater is effective to about 40 degrees. Effectiveness drops as the temperature cools.

How long does a 20 LB propane tank last in an outdoor patio heater?

The average portable propane patio heater houses a 20 LB propane tank or about 4.7 gallons of fuel. A 20 LB propane tank can last up to 10 hours and costs between $15 – $20 to fill up, making the average cost per hour between $1.50 – $2.00.

Can a propane heater be used on a covered porch?

Propane patio heaters typically require measurable amounts of clear space and can be safely used as long as there is proper ventilation and clearance — at least three around the heating unit and at least three feet above the heating unit as a minimum clearance away from any fire hazard or other combustible materials. Please, let common sense be your guide, and consult your product’s owner’s manual for specifics.

Can outdoor propane heaters be left out in the rain?

No. Outdoor gas heaters should be stored in the upright position in an area that is sheltered from direct contact with rain and other inclement weather conditions. 

Wheels are important to be able to reposition your patio heater under covering to avoid leaving it out in inclement weather such as hard rain or excessive snow.

What does BTU mean?

The British Thermal Unit is a way to measure energy. One BTU is the amount of energy it takes to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit at sea level.

A heater with a higher BTU rating is more powerful — that is, it has a higher heat output than one with a low BTU rating. The higher the BTU the better to raise the temperature in your space each hour, so you can either heat your space more quickly or heat a larger space.

Please Leave a Comment: Propane Patio Heater

Leave a comment below and tell us if this information was of value to you or let us know what we missed and can add to this post. Have you added a heater(s) to your patio and what kind? Let us know how it is working for you. Add a picture so we can see you relaxing on your (winter) patio, warm and toasty and sipping a Julie’s Hot Toddy.

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So, I mentioned in our blog post Furnishing the Patio that we had a friend who was moving long distance and was cleaning out her house into which she had acquired many, many items over the years. One of those items was a rope hammock which our friend gave to us as a gift. And that began our adventure into creating a space for our hammock on the patio.

Our Hammock Became a Happy Surprise

It is interesting how one item can become just one element of an entire project of which we had not necessarily planned embarking on, but ended up throughly enjoying the process as well as the finished product. My father, who was a watercolor artist, called it a “happy surprise” when a painting technique he was using netted him a better outcome than he had anticipated. And so, our hammock project became, for us, a “happy surprise”.

What is a Rope Hammock?

There are many kinds of hammocks — rope hammocks, quilted hammocks, fabric hammocks, woven hammocks, camping hammocks made from lightweight nylon, hammocks with spreader bars and those without (spreader bars keep the hammock spread out flat — without spreader bars the hammock wraps around you like a cocoon). You can do an online search and see all the options available. But I will say, a rope hammock takes us both back to our childhoods. This style of hammock was the quintessential example of what a hammock should be as we were growing up. Truly a classic.

While our hammock was a gift, we did find two rope hammock producers online which impressed us enough that we told ourselves if we got another rope hammock or needed to replace the one we have that we would seriously consider buying from either of these options: Twin Oaks Hammocks and Pawleys Island Hammocks.

Where to Hang the Hammock?

We walked around our yard imagining various places where we might want our hammock located. We considered these questions:

• Did we want it permanently planted with posts in the ground?
• Should we be concerned, if permanently placed, that there may be times when the hammock would not be in the sun because we could not move it as the sun changed positions throughout the summer?
• Did we want the hammock on the grass or on the patio? On the patio it might take up valuable living space, but in the yard it might kill the grass if we didn’t move it often. And what about mowing the lawn with the hammock in the yard?
• If not permanently placed, what kind of hammock stand should we have? And what would the materials be — wood, metal or something else?
• Finally, how much time, effort, and money did we want to invest in having a hammock?

Decision Time . . .

These questions helped us to decide that we wanted to be able to move the hammock at will, so a permanent installation was not for us.

We did extensive research on hammock stands before we made our decision. There are tons of options out there from inexpensive stands (of which many reviewers were dissatisfied with their performance), to beautifully crafted stands that, sadly were out of our budget range. So we decided to go the DIY route. But remember, I am not a craftsman. I stated in my blog post A Grilling Table is My Outdoor Kitchen that I am a very elementary carpenter (read: hacker — “a person who is inexperienced or unskilled at a particular activity”). I like 2x4s and maybe 2x12s, sometimes 4x4s. I like straight cuts and as few cuts as possible — no miters or angled cuts. I like screws versus glue because I make mistakes and sometimes I have to take apart what I’m building and reconfigure.

Our DIY Hammock Stand

In my research I found metal brackets that are designed and hand-fabricated to make creating a hammock stand easy. It takes some of the math out of the equation (like what angle do I make the upright ends of the hammock stand). Check out these custom made hammock stand brackets.

Measure Your Hammock

A critical element is to measure your hammock from one end to the other — ring to ring — to learn how long your hammock is. This can be a challenge because laying it on the ground won’t let you account for how much it might stretch when it’s on your stand, adding to its length. You might fudge and add a bit to cover that variable. And here’s why knowing your hammock’s length is important. The producer I bought my custom made hammock stand brackets from was generous enough to provide some instructions on how long each piece of 4×4 should be for the five elements of the stand — the angled two upright pieces, the two cross pieces, and the bottom long piece. I followed these instructions but, unfortunately, they didn’t work for our hammock. It was the long piece that ended up being too short. So I had to replace that bottom 4×4 with a longer one. 

Our hammock is 13 feet from ring to ring. So I bought three 10 foot 4x4s, pressure treated for ground contact. I cut two of the 4x4s in half — five feet each. These made up the cross pieces and the angled upright pieces. The last 10 foot 4×4 I used for the long piece on the bottom. I started using it at full length with the idea that I could cut it down if it was too long. But it wasn’t. It was the perfect length — 10 feet.

The chart linked below helped me tremendously to do the math, making sure I was cutting my wood to the right length to stretch our hammock to allow for about 18 inches of the recommended clearance from the ground when a person is laying in the hammock.

The ideal amount of space for hanging a hammock
The ideal hanging distance typically averages out to about 2 feet greater than the total length of a hammock, which is measured from ring to ring. Generally speaking, plan on needing about 15 feet of open space for hanging your hammock, though the actual distance can vary anywhere from 13-16 feet. Keep in mind that the closer your hanging points are to each other, the greater the arc, or curve, your hammock is going to have once it’s hung.

Here’s how we measured and built our hammock stand using the chart from PawleysIslandHammocks.com. Click on the question: How do I determine the ideal amount of space for hanging my hammock?

Distance is measured from ring to ring when hammock is laid flat on the floor. A new hammock may be up to 2 feet shorter than its specifications, to allow for its ropes natural tendency to stretch the first few times the hammock is used.

Seal the Wood

I let the wood dry in my basement shop for about two weeks and then put three coats of urethane on each piece to protect them from the weather since the stand would be outside year-round. 

Building the Stand Was Easy

Galvanized lag bolts at 1/4” x 1-1/2” were recommend by the bracket fabricator. The local hardware stores and big box home improvement stores were too expensive as I needed about 80 bolts to complete putting the stand together. I found a bag of 100 bolts at boltdepot.com for around ten dollars plus shipping. Much cheaper than buying local, although I prefer to support local sellers whenever possible.

Since we decided that we’d put the hammock stand on our concrete patio, I installed the angled upright pieces and the cross pieces into the brackets in my basement and took the parts out to the patio to install the 10 foot 4×4 long piece. I had a socket adapter for my drill so I used a 1/4” socket and connecting the brackets to the 4x4s was a breeze. 

I installed the eye bolt by drilling through the 4×4 at the end of each of the angled uprights to make sure they were secure and would hold a good weighted person. I had chains with hooks that came with our hammock so we were ready to mount the hammock and test it out.

An Unexpected Issue

Because of the length of the long piece, and, that I still have my “pandemic weight”, when I laid in the hammock the angled upright pieces bent forward a bit and allowed the long piece to bow slightly upward (inward toward me). This issue caused the cross pieces to rock back and forth a bit. Annoying. Not good. Additionally, I didn’t want the wood to sit directly on the concrete in inclement weather, and my wife wanted to be able to move the hammock to sweep the patio. So I resorted to my standard fix for many of life’s issues — add wheels. And where would I get four casters at a reasonable price that are high-weight rated? Harbor Freight! Go to harborfreight.com and buy one of their 18 in. x 12 in. 1000 lb. capacity hardwood dollies and remove the casters. Then, install them onto the bottom of each leg of the hammock cross pieces with the remaining galvanized lag bolts left over from installing the 4x4s into each hammock stand bracket. Viola! Perfectly balanced and easily moveable hammock stand.

Maintenance

The whole idea of sealing the wood was to be able to leave the frame outside, in the place it resides, year-round, through whatever kind of weather. But the rope hammock is another issue all together. Research indicates that, over time, wet weather will mildew and rot the rope. So to get the most longevity out of our rope hammock we leave it outside as long as the weather forecast shows no rain (the dew is no problem). But if the forecast indicates a day or more of rain, we bring the hammock inside and hang it from a hook in the basement ceiling. 

The End Result

So now we have a beautiful, comfortable, relaxing hammock on our patio. We never realized how wonderful it was to have a hammock until we had one. We lay in it during the day to capture the warm sun. We lay in it at night to gaze at the stars and the heavens. When we’re fatigued from work and/or life, we sink into the hammock for an hours’ worth of total relaxation. Sometimes we take a snack like a bag of chips and homemade onion dip and enjoy an adult beverage, swinging easy in the hammock. And we know that throughout the seasons, we’ll be chill’n on our patio in the rope hammock that was such a loving gift from our beloved friend who started us on this whole hammock experience.

Hammock and Hammock Stand FAQ

What is the most comfortable type of hammock?

Well, that’s kind of a personal preference. We prefer a rope hammock with spreader bars. In the summer time the rope hammock lets the air circulate around our body and we stay cooler. In the winter time on sunny days, we throw a comforter on the hammock and snuggle in for some serious relaxation. But there are many other kinds of hammocks — quilted hammocks, fabric hammocks, woven hammocks, camping hammocks made from lightweight nylon — you can do an online search and see all the options available.

Are hammock stands worth it?

Absolutely! We have no trees in our backyard so hanging our hammock from trees is not an option. And even if it was, we like being able to move our hammock around our yard based on whether we want it in the sun or in the shade. If we want to change our view from the hammock we just move the stand to a different location in our yard.

What type of hammock stand is the most stable?

We like beefy structures so we made our hammock stand out of 4×4 pressure treated posts. The cross beams on the bottom are five feet in length. So we feel pretty confident that, between the strength of a 4×4 post and the wide cross pieces resting on the ground, that our hammock stand is as stable as you can get. Typically, an 8-foot 4×4 supported at both ends will safely support about 500-pounds in the center. If you buy a stand, be sure to read customer reviews to learn how any particular hammock stand is performing . . . or not.

How much weight can a hammock hold?

Hammocks can hold anywhere from 250 to around 800 pounds. When you purchase your hammock it should tell you what the weight rating is for that particular hammock. 

How long should a hammock stand be?

To find the right size of stand for your hammock, measure the length of your hammock from one end to the other — ring to ring — to learn the length of your hammock. This can be a challenge because laying it on the ground won’t let you account for how much it might stretch when it’s on your stand, adding to its length. So you might fudge and add a bit to cover that variable. Then, add two feet to the measurement. If you choose a stand that’s longer than two feet greater than your hammock length, don’t stress. You can buy extension chains to get the best fit for your hammock to the stand.

How far should a hammock be off the ground?

Hang your hammock so it’s no more than 18” off the ground at its lowest point when laying in it. This is called the “sitting height” because your bum will likely be the lowest point in the hammock when you’re in it

Can you leave a hammock and stand outside?

All of our research indicated that leaving your hammock outside in prolonged wet weather will decidedly shorten the life of your hammock. So we bring our hammock into an enclosed space (our walk-out basement) if heavy or multiple-day rain is predicted, and in the winter time. 

If your stand is truly weather-proof leaving it outdoors should be okay. We put three coats of exterior grade polyurethane on our 4×4 post hammock stand in addition to the wood being pressure treated for outdoor use. The stand is on wheels to keep it from sitting directly on wet grass or snow for days at a time. Plus, our stand is 16 feet long so I’d have to take it apart to store it in our garden shed. Finally, we live in southwestern Virginia. We have mild winters and frequently lounge on our patio in the winter time on a clear sunny day in the crisp winter air.

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